Thursday 26 December 2013

From Kyaiktiyo to the “Rope Wizard” at Kyaukhtatkyi Pagoda

While Kyaiktiyo Pagoda, or the Golden Rock, is always packed with pilgrims and tourists, the pagoda’s surrounding hills including Crow’s Mouth Cave, Hunter Hill, Yathae Hill, Kyaukhtatkyi Pagoda and the waterfall, are no less crowded with visitors.

Located two and a half miles north of Kyaiktiyo Hill, Kyaukhtatkyi Pagoda has received a lot of attention from visitors due to the ‘Rope Wizard’, who risks his life by ‘flying’ 60 feet above the ground from a cane rope to gild the pagoda with gold leaves on behalf of the pilgrims.

Aye Lwin began this practice in 1989 and his son Min Min has since taken over his job.

“I have been doing this for four years now. My father retired at the age of 72,” said Min Min.

“I have to control many things in order to gild the pagoda with gold leaves. I only eat vegetables. I always pray to the Nine Attributes of the Buddha. When I was young, I learned how to climb the rope by watching my father. I still haven’t faced any difficulties yet. The main reason I risk my life is for Kyaukhtatkyi Pagoda to look sublime with gold leaves and for the people to have merit.”

As Min Min has to lie flat while travelling on the rope, thick cloths have been sewn to his shirt to prevent chafing, rashes, or abrasions on his chest.

Pilgrims make various kinds of donations while visiting Kyaiktiyo Pagoda and its surroundings. But there are some who take advantage of pilgrims by forcing them to worship at a shrine and then demanding donations from them.

“You have to submit for permission to the authorities if you want to do anything at Kyaiktiyo and the surrounding hills. The people who ask for donations along the road are doing them after getting contracts from the authorities,” said an old lady selling soft drinks along the road to Kyaukhtatkyi Pagoda.

School-age children were also seen begging along the road, instead of attending school. This is very worrisome for their future, locals say.

“I want my children to attend school and become educated. But, I cannot make this a first priority as we barely have enough to eat. So, we have to do this in order to have better livelihoods during this pilgrimage season,” said Aung Naing, a father of three.

Families who live in the surrounding hills of Kyaiktiyo Pagoda make their living by doing hillside cultivation, cutting firewood, and selling it to restaurants.

Kyaiktiyo Pagoda has been packed with visitors this pilgrimage season and many have struggled to find accommodation.

source: Eleven Myanmar

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