Monday 28 October 2013

Mesmerizing Myanmar

Myanmar is no longer a mysterious hermit nation. Among its main attractions are the Temples of Bagan.

I can thank Luc Besson’s The Lady for taking me to Myanmar. I watched it twice; after the second viewing, I had my tickets to Yangon.

Many worried friends queried my choice of Myanmar with a stream of SMSs following my 10-day, mobile phonefree trip (bliss!). Hadn’t I been afraid to venture into this nation with its possibility of civil unrest?

Not at all. Beginning with the welcoming immigration offi cer at Yangon airport, it was a great trip. Myanmar cannot be compared to its immediate neighbors and their more sophisticated charms. In addition to its countless stunning temples, which I would see in Bagan, its real attractions are rustic experiences with some of the world’s friendliest and most generous people. In the Golden Land of Myanmar, people still wear traditional dress: both men and women are clad in longyis (Burmese sarong) with their teeth stained red from betel nut.

For Indonesians, Myanmar’s former capital and biggest city is comparable to Bogor back in the 1980s: lots of parks and trees. There is no nightlife to speak of because everything closes at 9 p.m. and there are restrictions on going out after 10 p.m. The “bars” are local tea shops selling beer and cheap whiskey.

My real destination was Bagan, the famous archaeological site of more than 2,200 temples and pagodas located on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River in Mandalay province. Many travelers warn the roads are almost impassable and that it is best to fl y. I took the bus anyway, and found the “bad roads” to be about the same as the roads I pass every day in Jakarta.

Bagan is divided into three regions: Old Bagan, the site of many 11th century redbrick temples; New Bagan, to where local populations were relocated in the effort to preserve the ancient structures; and modern Nyaung U, where the airport is.

Fifty-fi ve kings ruled Bagan over 12 centuries. The powerful kingdom left the dry plains dotted with as many as 4,400 temples built between the 11th and 13th centuries. Unfortunately, UNESCO has not included Bagan on its world heritage site list because of the sloppy rebuilding of the original temples after the massive earthquake in 1975.

It is possible to see all the remaining 2,200 temples if only from a distance. The oldest and probably most photographed temple, Ananda Pahto, was built in 1090 and has four Buddha statues facing the cardinal directions. At the tallest temple, Thatbyinnyu Phaya, built around 1144, visitors climb the stairs for a surreal, breathtaking view.

Bagan is best explored by bicycle, available for rent from most hotels. There are also hot air balloon rides every sunrise between October and March, when the weather is at its best. At US$310 per person it isn’t cheap, but it’s worth it!

Full of Surprises

Myanmar’s appeal is truly about its friendly people. On my second day, I was walking toward a temple when a woman started yelling at me in Burmese.  When she realized I was not a local, she warned me in English about snakes and landmines.

She then invited me to her small shop. “It’s very hot today, you’d better cover your face with thanaka!” she said of the yellowish paste made from ground bark that local women have been using as a natural sunscreen for thousands of years.

“You really look like you are from Myanmar now!” she said after smearing my face and arms with thanaka. I asked her if she could teach me how to cook one or two local dishes for a few tens of thousands of kyat. She agreed.

She lives in a very modest house with her parents and two more families. We cooked pork and chicken curries with several side dishes. The side dishes took more time than the mains, because the people eat their mains with vegetable salads, soup and sambal. They use a lot of tamarind, tomatoes, onions and garlic in their dishes.

Dinner turned out to be the best meal I had in Myanmar. Before I left, the family gave me a packet of tamarind sweets for the road and a pair of velvet sandals to be worn with my longyi to complete the look.

A visit to this frequently misunderstood country restored a great deal of my faith in humanity. I came to the country on my own, and left it knowing of a bunch of people I could call family.

Burmese Briefs

Getting there: You can fly from Jakarta to Yangon via Kuala Lumpur (www.airasia.com) or Singapore (www.silkair.com). From Yangon, you can get to Bagan on an overnight bus (US$20) or take one of the daily flights (Air Mandala, Air Bagan, Air KBZ, Air Yangon).

Where to stay in Bagan Luxury: Tharabar Gate in Old Bagan (www.tharabargate.com) Mid-range: Blue Bird Hotel (www.bluebirdbagan.com) Budget: Kaday Aung in New Bagan (www.baganhotel.com)

Before you go …

Myanmar is a member of ASEAN but tourists of all nationalities must obtain a visitor’s visa at the embassy in their home country. Only those with business interests are granted a Visa on Arrival (VoA) at the airport. The visa costs Rp 200,000 and takes three working days to issue. Your passport must have at least six months’ validity.

Travelers have to carry around a stack of kyat to survive (some hotels and airlines accept US dollars). Fortunately, Myanmar is among the safest countries in Southeast Asia.

Bring only US dollar bills in mint condition and dated after 2006. Exchange US dollars at the official change offices or hotels/guesthouses in Yangon, which have the best rates. Avoid changing money on the black market.

Flying is the most efficient means of getting around in Myanmar, especially if your time is limited. You can book tickets online, but you pay in cash at the airline offi ce or to one of the major travel agents in Yangon.

Many guidebooks advise travelers to pack a fl ashlight. It’s no joke; there are few streetlamps in cities, and blackouts are a daily occurrence.

source: Jakarta Post

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